From a California Horse Ranch to Platinum Loopers: The Smiths’ Two Loops Aboard an Aquila 44

April and Larry Smith spent most of their lives far from long-term boating. As young adults they had only brief encounters with life at sea—April crewed an 86-foot yawl in Marina del Rey and Larry spent nine months as first mate on a 43-foot trimaran—yet for decades the water remained a peripheral part of their lives. It wasn’t until they were in their 60s, living on a 10-acre horse ranch in California, that the idea of living aboard and cruising seriously took hold.

What began as plans to buy a sailing catamaran for the British Virgin Islands quickly shifted when they heard about the Great Loop. They purchased a 52-foot Hatteras to tackle the Loop—a surprising choice compared with the typical Loop cruiser—but the Hatteras became their introduction to long-distance cruising. They completed their first Great Loop in 2017. To prepare they took formal boating classes and Larry trained with the Power Squadron, but much of their knowledge was gained hands-on during the voyage. Today both April and Larry hold a USCG 100-ton Master Captain’s License.

After a few months following the Loop, the Smiths made bold life changes: they sold their ranch, changed residency from the West Coast to Florida, and moved aboard full-time. Their experiences on the Hatteras had sparked a desire for a different style of boat—one with the livability and ease of a modern catamaran. They had first noticed Aquila catamarans at a boat show in Charleston and intended to charter one in the BVI after finishing the Loop in Fairhope, Alabama. A last-minute Hurricane Irma cancellation led them to the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show instead, where they evaluated nearly every catamaran on display and ultimately chose an Aquila 44. In 2018 they sold the Hatteras, took delivery of the Aquila 44, and moved aboard.

Living Aboard One Eye Dog

Their Aquila was customized for comfortable liveaboard life: the former starboard stateroom was converted to a storage area with extra refrigerators and freezers, plus a full-size washer and dryer. Its full-beam master suited them perfectly. They christened the boat One Eye Dog after their 10-year-old Maltese, Abby, who lost an eye when she was younger. Abby adapted to life aboard easily—she enjoys swimming, kayaking and greeting every guest that comes on deck.

The decision to repeat the Loop aboard the Aquila came spontaneously while the couple was cruising near the Chesapeake. A casual remark—“We can just keep going and finish the Loop again”—turned into a second complete circuit. The Aquila turned out to be exceptionally well-suited for the route: despite a wide 21-foot beam that might seem awkward for inland waterways, its maneuverability and handling made locks and tight passages easier compared with the heavier, higher-freeboard Hatteras.

Favorite Stops and Challenges on the Great Loop

Rather than naming a single favorite, the Smiths say they “travel by stomach,” seeking notable restaurants wherever the Loop takes them—from Michelin-starred spots in New York and Chicago to humble local stands. They enjoy big cities and small coastal towns alike: Fairhope and Orange Beach in Alabama, Beaufort in both North and South Carolina, Georgetown, South Carolina, and Baltimore are among their top stops thanks to good marinas and even better food.

They also relish inland river cruising, which leads to unexpected destinations like Green Turtle Bay in Grand Rivers, Kentucky. The couple has gone through 230 locks and learned to read river conditions and barge traffic—essential skills for safe inland navigation. April emphasizes the need to understand river gauges and how debris moves with tides: debris concentrates in the river’s center at flood stage and along the sides when water is receding, changing the safest lines to take.

They also share practical lessons learned on the Loop: being patient when bridges or mechanical issues cause long delays, and adapting routes when a boat’s dimensions make certain canals impractical. For example, they skipped the Trent-Severn Waterway in the Aquila and chose the Welland Canal instead after a tight encounter on the Trent-Severn while aboard the Hatteras showed how narrow cuts and misunderstandings can lead to dangerous close calls.

One particularly harrowing memory was the first time they crossed the Gulf Stream on the Hatteras at night: a 21-hour, 8.8 mph crossing that April ranks as their worst experience. By contrast, crossings on the Aquila are shorter and typically done in daylight, reducing both stress and transit time.

Community, History and Future Plans

Completing the Loop twice earned the Smiths the Platinum Looper designation from the American Great Loop Cruisers Association in 2019; they are the 96th pair to achieve this milestone. Beyond the cruising accomplishment, the Smiths treasure the community and the history encountered along the route. They’ve collected more than 400 business cards from fellow cruisers and built friendships worldwide. April notes that the Loop offers a continuous, unexpected lesson in American history while also introducing a tight-knit community of like-minded travelers.

Currently enjoying a break in Hampton, Virginia, the Smiths are already planning another journey: a third Loop that follows the Downeast Circle route—up the Hudson, through Lake Champlain, around the Gaspé Peninsula, down the East Coast of New Brunswick past Prince Edward Island, along Nova Scotia and down the Maine coast. For them, the Loop remains an ideal lifestyle for people who love travel, food and meeting others on the water.

This article was originally published in the November 2022 issue.