img 27551 1

Loop Lite on the Carolina Short Course: Riders Guide

Cruising the Carolina Loop: A Scenic, Short Coastal Route for Boaters

Short on time but eager for a safe, rewarding cruise, many boaters find the Carolina Loop an ideal choice. This well-marked, roughly 110-mile circuit around eastern North Carolina combines rivers, sounds, canal passages, locks and bridges, abundant wildlife and welcoming towns — all without the time commitment of a Great Loop voyage.

img 27551 1

Boaters from Chesapeake and Norfolk often join the loop where the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) splits near Mile 7.3, less than 10 miles south of Waterside Marina in Norfolk, Va. From that point you can follow two enjoyable options: travel east along the Albemarle & Chesapeake Canal (the North Carolina-Virginia Cut) into North Landing River and Currituck Sound, then proceed down the North River into Albemarle Sound before returning north on the Alternate ICW via the Pasquotank River and the historic Dismal Swamp Canal to complete the loop; or reverse the route and cruise southwest. Along the way, boaters can detour to Elizabeth City or Coinjock, N.C.

The Carolina Loop suits a wide range of boaters. Some complete it in as few as three days; others take a leisurely week to enjoy the scenery, local marinas and waterfront restaurants. The waters vary from the wind-swept marshes of Currituck Sound to the deep, forested corridors of the Dismal Swamp, offering a mix of cruising experiences within a compact itinerary.

“The Carolina Loop is such a nice cruise, with a little of everything — Dismal Swamp, rivers, three locks and bridges, friendly people, great restaurants and so much wildlife, even osprey and eagles overhead,” says Edwin Emerson, a lifelong sailor from Chesapeake, Va. For Emerson, one of the pleasures is not retracing the same course back to the start; the loop provides variety and new views throughout the trip.

Wildlife and shoreline scenes are highlights. Crab pots and fishing gear mark working waters in Currituck Sound, while cottages and small towns line quieter rivers. Elizabeth City showcases historic neighborhoods and hospitality, and Coinjock and Chesapeake offer full-service marinas with restaurants for provisioning, repairs or an evening ashore.

img 27551 2

A standout on the route is the Dismal Swamp Canal. Completed in 1805, the 22-mile canal played a significant role in regional commerce and holds layers of history, including its use as a refuge during the Civil War. The canal’s quiet, forested environment and connections to Lake Drummond offer a rare inland-forest-to-coastal-waterway experience. Emerson advises that the Dismal Swamp Canal is best savored at a slower pace — a trawler or sailboat lets you take in the scenery and wildlife.

The Albemarle & Chesapeake Canal, opened in 1859 and incorporated into the ICW in 1913, provides deeper, straighter passage with 12-foot depths and a single lock and bridge. By contrast, the Dismal Swamp Canal was rebuilt in 1899 to shallower depths and includes two locks; it remains a quieter backcountry route that may be affected by Lake Drummond water levels.

Groups often run the loop successfully in mixed fleets. Bill Fluty of Radio Island Marina in Morehead City, N.C., led a weeklong trip from Morehead City to Norfolk in a Pursuit 25 and describes the cruise as both informative and fun. In one flotilla, participants ranged from a 25-foot Pursuit to a 36-foot Sabre. For many, the trip provides first-hand experience with locks and bridge procedures and builds confidence for longer coastal cruises. The shared experience of transiting Deep Creek Lock, for example, is a memorable hands-on lesson for new looper crews.

Practical stopovers include Coinjock, Elizabeth City and Chesapeake, each with marina services, dining and friendly shorefront atmospheres. Emerson recalls enjoying evenings on his boat talking with passersby and sampling Elizabeth City’s local restaurants. For those who prefer a longer stay, free docking is occasionally available at the Dismal Swamp Welcome Center (Mile Marker 28), or you can anchor along the North or Pasquotank rivers when conditions permit.

The Carolina Loop is a compact, accessible cruising option that introduces boaters to canal navigation, lock and bridge coordination, and coastal sound and river travel — all within a short itinerary. Whether you want a fast three-day circuit or a relaxed week exploring waterways and towns, the Loop offers scenic variety, historical interest and plenty of practical cruising experience.

For information

  • Elizabeth City, www.discoverelizabethcity.com
  • Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, www.dismalswamp.com
  • Army Corps of Engineers, Norfolk, (757) 201-7642
  • A&C Canal: Great Bridge Lock opens on demand in conjunction with Great Bridge hourly openings from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., then on demand, (757) 547-3311. North Landing Bridge opens every hour and half hour from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., then on demand, (757) 482-3081.
  • Dismal Swamp Canal: Locks at Deep Creek (Mile Marker 11.5) (757) 487-0831, and South Mills (Mile Marker 33) (252) 771-5906, open at 8:30 and 11 a.m., and 1:30 and 3:30 p.m., subject to water levels. Bridges open in conjunction.

See related articles:

– Life on the Loop

– The Looper Troupe: Sharing the Dream

– Doing the Loop: The Wades Weigh In

This article originally appeared in the March 2011 issue.