Block Island: A Boater’s Summer Destination

Block Island sits just 12 miles off the coast of Rhode Island — close enough to tempt many boaters, yet far enough that the passage demands respect. The island is a narrow 3-by-7-mile landform whose approach can be complicated by shifting currents, fickle or brisk winds, and a high shoreline with a relatively narrow channel leading into New Harbor (Great Salt Pond). Add frequent fog and the wake of high-speed ferries, and a safe arrival calls for good planning and sound seamanship.

For many sailors the trip to Block Island represents the highlight of summer cruising. My family — my then-husband and our three young children — sharpened our skills on a series of cruises, beginning in borrowed sloops and later aboard Scud, an engineless yawl modeled after Captain Joshua Slocum’s Spray that we built for a circumnavigation. One memorable challenge was threading into New Harbor while the returning fleet from Block Island Race Week threaded around our close-hauled yawl, an exercise that tested patience and boat-handling alike.

Block Island Race Week is one of the summer’s premier events. Ted Herley, a three-time J/109 North American champion, returns each year for the one-design fleet that typically draws more than 180 yachts for both round-the-buoys and round-the-island competition (the regatta often takes place in late June). “I love Block, but I come for the one-design racing,” he says. “When the boats are equal, victory comes down to skipper skill and crew work.”

Sportfishing is another strong draw. Superb striped bass fishing brings anglers back regularly, and local captains run charters for everything from nearshore stripers to summer tuna runs. Longtime charter clients often report consistently good trips — the island’s rich waters are a major reason many visitors return. Peak tuna action typically occurs later in summer, and experienced captains plan trips around seasonal migrations.

The harbormaster manages more than 400 moorings in New Harbor, and several marinas provide transient slips and services. Champlin’s Marina Resort, Payne’s Dock and Block Island Boat Basin are commonly used for provisioning, repairs and dockage. On busy summer holiday weekends, more than 1,000 yachts can be found tied up, moored, anchored or rafted together in the 45-acre pond. Most of the mainland ferries arrive at the Atlantic-facing Old Harbor, which limits available dock and anchor space there, so planning your arrival and securing a mooring early are prudent.

The island’s dramatic topography is the legacy of glacial activity: 250-foot clay bluffs crowned by Southeast Lighthouse, rolling hills sprinkled with freshwater ponds, and northern dunes guarded by North Light, a marker of shoals off what locals call “New England’s stumbling block.” Block Island features about 17 miles of beaches, including a stretch just across the road from the head of Great Salt Pond where you can land a dinghy. That popular beach is equipped with lifeguards, snack bars and public facilities in several sections; for those preferring quieter sands, more isolated beaches and hiking trails are available for exploration.

Outdoor recreation on Block Island ranges from casual to adventurous. Hikers and birdwatchers can explore roughly 25 miles of trails winding through protected nature preserves; rental bicycles provide a quiet, efficient way to move around the island and connect boat moorings with restaurants and bars. Many visitors hop on bikes to commute between their vessel and popular spots such as The Oar and Deadeye Dick’s, enjoying the island’s relaxed pace and local seafood along the way. Surfers, kayakers and parasailers also find areas suited to their pursuits, though swimmers should avoid the rocky, surf-battered south shore and the swirling currents near Sandy Point.

The town of Old Town cultivated Victorian-era hotels and retreats that once provided respite from the stifling cities of the East. Today those historic neighborhoods still offer inns, boutique shops and amusements, alongside modern conveniences including bicycle and moped rentals that help visitors explore the island’s compact road network.

European explorer Adrian Block charted the island in 1614; his name is the origin of the island’s modern designation. Over time European settlement displaced the Native American fishing communities that once relied on these shores. Today Block Island supports a small year-round population and swells dramatically during the summer months with seasonal residents and day-trippers.

Seasonal visitors often praise Block Island’s preserved character. As racer Ted Herley notes, in June the island often feels like summers of decades past — unhurried, scenic and relatively unspoiled. For many cruisers it remains a cherished destination, a place to test navigation and boat-handling skills, savor excellent fishing and enjoy beaches, trails and small-town island life.

We left Block Island for the trans-Atlantic leg of our circumnavigation, and five years later it was the first U.S. soil our sea legs reacquainted with. The island’s combination of challenging approaches, rich marine life, varied terrain and welcoming harbors continues to attract sailors, anglers and vacationers year after year.

July 2013 issue