Photos by Bob Grieser
Have you ever wanted to try chicken necking — to spend a day working like a Chesapeake Bay crabber even if you don’t own a boat, a basket, a crab net or a trotline? For a genuine, hands-on taste of that tradition, head to Schnaitman’s Wye Landing seafood compound. This family-run operation, established near the head of the Wye River off the Miles River on Maryland’s middle Eastern Shore in the late 1940s, welcomes visitors who want to learn, fish and taste real Maryland blue crab culture.
The Schnaitman compound is as much a community anchor as a working seafood business. The place is known for what locals call the “Number One Jimmies,” large male blue crabs that can measure more than eight inches across their shells. Brothers Charlie and Ken Schnaitman, both in their eighties, still run the waterfront. They outfit visitors with the classic baits — chicken necks or salted eel — and set enthusiasts off in one of their roughly 25 home-built wooden boats, either with an outboard motor or by oar power. The experience emphasizes simplicity and tradition: basic gear, a quiet spot on the water, and the rhythm of tide and sun.
There are two common approaches you’ll see at Wye Landing. Serious watermen sometimes use longer baited lines or trotlines that stretch between small anchored floats, an effective method for filling a basket. But many visitors prefer hand lines. As Charlie explains, “Some chicken neckers prefer to use hand lines rather than stringing out a long baited line anchored by two small floats. They row to a spot, drop the hook and sit in the hot sun with a cooler of beer.” That slower pace isn’t meant to rival a pro’s haul; it’s about being on the water, learning how to dangle and tend a line, and mastering the net without getting pinched by an eager crab.
If you’re uncertain about your first outing or you don’t land a big number, there’s a practical solution: the Schnaitmans also source freshly caught crabs from local watermen. You can buy a batch and have them steamed on-site to take home. Part of the charm — and the wink of local culture — is the playful invitation to claim the catch as your own memory. As Charlie laughs, “What happens in Wye Landing stays in Wye Landing.”
Beyond the individual crab-catching experience, a substantial portion of Schnaitman’s business is serving the local community by filling orders for steamed crabs that folks pick up to enjoy at home. The compound operates as a straightforward seafood hub: orders come in, crabs are prepared live or steamed, and customers collect them for gatherings, family meals or celebrations. For visitors who prefer not to try chicken-necking themselves, the Schnaitmans offer charters so you can still spend time on the water while an experienced captain handles the gear and the hauling.
Visiting Wye Landing is as much about the atmosphere as the technique: wooden boats tied to a simple dock, the distinctive smells of bay water and steaming spice, and a working waterfront where decades of family knowledge guide everyday routines. For a first-timer, practical tips include dressing for sun and wind, wearing shoes that can handle a wet deck, and bringing a cooler if you plan to take crabs home. Expect a hands-on introduction to landing and netting crabs, learning how to handle them safely, and the satisfactions of a freshly steamed meal afterward.
For those curious about scheduling, services or charter availability, the operation maintains a public presence online; search for Schnaitman’s Wye Landing or the Schnaitman boat operation for current contact details and seasonal hours. Visiting in person, however, is the best way to absorb the full experience: the friendly instruction from Charlie or Ken, the quiet patience of a hand line in the water, and the reward of blue crabs that are as much a taste as a story from Maryland’s Eastern Shore.
This article originally appeared in the October 2011 issue.
