Cruising the Hudson: A Leaf-Peeping Weekend Aboard a 1989 Transworld 50 Fantail Pilothouse Trawler

For decades I’d dreamed of motoring up the Hudson River. When my brother Rik bought a 1989 Transworld 50 Fantail Pilothouse trawler—an ideal small yacht for Hudson cruising—I suggested an October leaf-peeping trip. Rik and his wife were headed to Australia that month, but Rik connected me with their daughter, Hannah, who lives aboard Consensus in Jersey City.

Rik had found the boat in the Soundings classifieds and struck a deal with Hannah: he would buy the trawler if she covered docking fees and split maintenance costs. Hannah, newly promoted as the Port Authority’s Environmental Specialist for New Jersey’s seaports and moving from Manhattan, welcomed the chance to live aboard and learn to handle a larger vessel.

Hannah grew up around boats—canoes, dinghies and classic runabouts—and had repaired small craft at her uncle’s Adirondack shop. Though she’d never piloted anything over 25 feet, she embraced life aboard a 50-footer and jumped into the learning curve. She bought into Consensus, moved onboard and agreed to captain our Hudson weekend.

Preparing to Cruise

My wife Jeanne-Marie and I wanted to be passengers, not captains. Jeanne-Marie, a Kings Point graduate with credentials aplenty, happily deferred command so we could soak in the scenery. We planned a tight itinerary: leave Jersey City on Columbus Day weekend, head upriver as far as Consensus’s 6.5-knot cruise speed and the tide would allow within 48 hours, then return in the final 24 hours. Our goal was to reach as far as possible—ideally Marlboro, about 60 miles upriver—while enjoying the fall colors on Muhheakunnuk, the Hudson River.

We met Hannah at Liberty Landing Marina the night before departure, stowed provisions, grabbed sushi ashore and turned in early. At 0600 she was topside with her checklist, running through engines and bilges like someone who’d spent quality time below decks. Locals thought Marlboro was achievable in a day; I was skeptical given Consensus’s single 135-hp Lehman Ford and heavy displacement, but we left that to Hannah.

Upriver Through the Palisades

We shoved off at 0700 with my wife and I handling lines while Hannah backed Consensus into the river. The sky was leaden at first, but spirits were high. We made a surprising 8.5 knots over ground for a while, buoyed by a favorable tide and current. Breakfast in the pilothouse kept things relaxed; autopilot held course while Hannah monitored traffic and logged the trip in our family logbook—an heirloom used by our grandfather.

Once Manhattan and Grant’s Tomb slipped astern, the Palisades rose on our starboard side and the river opened up. Geology and history became part of the passage—lessons on the glacier-cut valleys and the river’s tidal nature provided texture to the trip. As the hours passed, our ETA recalculations oscillated between optimism and realism.

Negotiating Traffic and the Highlands

At 1000 we passed under the new Governor Mario M. Cuomo Bridge. Traffic picked up near the Hudson Highlands, and we encountered a long northbound tug-and-barge combo, Buchanan, pushing multiple barges. Hannah wanted to pass; Jeanne-Marie—who’d driven tugs and barges in Alaska—counseled caution. We radioed the tug, were asked to wait until he completed two sharp turns and cleared the Bear Mountain Bridge, then began what became a very slow, careful overtaking maneuver once allowed.

Passing those barges felt tense—Consensus had only one engine and limited speed—but we got through with careful timing and a bit of luck. Once clear, the Highlands rewarded us with dramatic granite cliffs, vivid fall color and expansive vistas that made the effort worthwhile. The Hudson narrowed into fjord-like channels carved by glaciation, and the river’s deepest point—about 200 feet near West Point—reminded us how dynamic this landscape is.

We motored past West Point, then Bannerman Castle on Pollepel Island, its crumbling red brick evoking images of European river castles. The river widened again as we exited the Highlands and entered more gentle terrain approaching Newburgh and Marlboro.

Marlboro and Evening on Shore

By mid-afternoon we tied up at West Shore Marina in Marlboro. The marina owner gave us local tips and a spirited history of the town. We climbed into town for dinner at the Raccoon Saloon, perched on an outdoor veranda with river views, then checked out The Falcon, a converted button factory and a regional live-music venue. The Avalon Archives Museum of Rock & Roll there surprised us with memorabilia, including a donated Lifetime Achievement Grammy on display.

Engine Concerns and a Relaxed Return

The next morning two bald eagles greeted us on the dock. We decided to head back slowly and hike along the way. Shortly after leaving Marlboro we noticed thicker white exhaust from Consensus. Engine temps and oil pressure read normal, but the exhaust suggested possible water in the fuel or another issue. Hannah inspected filters and gauges while texting my brother for advice. Cylinder head temperatures looked fine, so we continued but kept a close watch.

Weather was pleasant: high clouds, upper 60s and a steady headwind. We enjoyed the passage through Haverstraw Bay—the Hudson’s widest stretch—and returned to Croton-on-Hudson for a walk at Croton Point Park, a 508-acre peninsula with sweeping river views. Later we watched the sunset from Consensus’s flybridge, then had a modest dinner ashore.

The following morning Hannah switched fuel filters, but the smoky exhaust persisted intermittently. At one point the engine temperature jumped from a steady reading to 190°F in seconds, prompting us to reduce power and move to shallower water just in case we needed to anchor. Equally quickly, the gauge dropped back to normal and the smoke cleared. Though puzzling, the issue stabilized and we accepted the mystery, enjoying the return downriver.

Boat traffic, a handful of impatient tour boats and long tug-and-barge combinations made parts of the run lively—but none of it dampened our enthusiasm. Hannah handled docking with practiced ease when we slipped back into Liberty Landing Marina, making the return look effortless.

Conclusion

Hot engines and close-quarters barge passing aside, the weekend felt like a perfect Hudson experience—rich in scenery, history and camaraderie. We tasted fall colors, saw bald eagles and castles in the river, and came away eager to plan another cruise. In short, everyone agreed: it was a memorable trip aboard Consensus.

This article was originally published in the October 2020 issue.