Last fall, aboard their 1986 Grand Banks Snow Goose, Onne and Tenley van der Wal set out for Florida with a goal: explore quieter, lesser-traveled places. Below are the highlights of their favorite stops along the Intracoastal Waterway and nearby rivers, each offering distinct scenery, wildlife and local character.
Tangier Island, VA Onne had long wanted to visit Tangier Island, and the island and its residents exceeded expectations. The community speaks a distinctive, old-fashioned version of American English and is warm and welcoming. Tangier is conservative and deeply religious, and the island is dry—no alcohol is sold there. More striking is the island’s precarious future: rising seas have reduced habitable land dramatically since the 1960s, and engineers predict further loss in the coming decades. Onne describes the landscape as low-lying, with fishing shacks raised on pilings and skiffs needed to reach larger boats. Despite the sobering outlook, the van der Wals loved biking around the island and dining at Lorraine’s Restaurant, where they enjoyed the local specialty, soft-shell crab. “It was an eye-opener,” Onne says. “What an amazing community. I would have loved to stay longer.”
Dismal Swamp Canal, VA/NC Near the Virginia–North Carolina border you can follow the busy Virginia Cut through Coinjock, or choose the quieter, more atmospheric Dismal Swamp Canal. The van der Wals took the swamp route and found it surprisingly rewarding. Rather than bustling marinas and big steaks, the canal offers a narrow, tree-canopied waterway and peaceful navigation through a series of locks. The route is shallow in places; Onne’s shallow-draft boat fared well despite occasional thunks from submerged logs and duckweed that required cleaning the sea strainer. They tied up at the visitor center, spent the night alongside another trawler and enjoyed a morning walk in the serene surroundings. “I just loved it, and I would do it again,” Onne says.
Beaufort, NC After crossing Pamlico Sound and riding out the tail end of Hurricane Nicole at Safe Harbor Jarrett Bay, the couple took a short ride to Beaufort, one of North Carolina’s oldest towns. Beaufort has a deep maritime history, including the 1718 grounding of Blackbeard’s flagship, Queen Anne’s Revenge, remains of which were discovered in the inlet decades ago. The van der Wals toured the local branch of the North Carolina Maritime Museum, visited cozy pubs like Backstreet Pub to warm up by the fire, and enjoyed dinner at Aqua. Beaufort’s historic charm and seafaring stories made it a memorable stop on their voyage.
Alligator River, NC Anchored in the Alligator River beside the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, the couple found a wide, peaceful stretch of water with ample space between other snowbirds. The refuge sits amid the Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds and is noted for its wildlife, including endangered red wolves and American alligators. Onne, an open-water swimmer, bounded into the dark, tannin-stained water—much to Tenley’s alarm given the river’s name—but saw no alligators. The anchorage offered a quiet place to relax and enjoy nature away from crowds.
Swansboro, NC The Intracoastal Waterway threads through vital wetland nurseries for fish, which in turn attract a rich variety of birds. Onne, a long-time bird enthusiast who grew up with aviaries in South Africa, kept a telephoto lens ready throughout the trip. Near Swansboro—set beside expansive wetlands—the couple watched American white pelicans riding thermals high overhead. These large, impressive birds are a special sight along the Atlantic flyway during winter months, and the pelicans’ graceful, high-altitude flight left a lasting impression on the van der Wals.
Waccamaw River, NC/SC The Waccamaw River flows from southeastern North Carolina into South Carolina and ultimately toward the Atlantic. Its upper reaches are slow-moving blackwater, surrounded by cypress-gum swamps and bottomland hardwoods that host Atlantic white cedar and live oaks. Onne and his friend Bill “Hutch” Hutchinson anchored on the Waccamaw and explored the shallows by dinghy, though dense brush kept them from venturing far ashore. The river’s tannin-dark water and tranquil floodplain create a sublime, reflective experience. Local activity—such as kids racing by in hunting boats—adds character to the otherwise peaceful landscape.
Bennett’s Point, SC For a true off-the-beaten-path stop, Bennett’s Point fits the bill. Tucked between Charleston and Beaufort on Mosquito Creek off the Ashepoo River, the spot sits only a few feet above sea level with marsh and trees between it and the ocean. The van der Wals found strong currents in the creek but reliable anchoring and a tiny, friendly community. They bought fresh shrimp from a local seafood vendor and cooked it aboard—simple, delicious fare. A quiet sunrise the following morning underscored how remote and restorative the place felt: “If you want an out-of-the-way place, it is that,” Onne says.
McClellanville, SC McClellanville is a small coastal town with deep roots in fishing, shrimping and oystering, surrounded by the Francis Marion National Forest. The transient dock at Leland Oil Company is modest, but the town’s local seafood offerings and easygoing vibe won the van der Wals over. With a fuel stop and a bike ride, they discovered local favorites such as TW Graham and Livingston’s Bulls Bay Seafood, where they learned about oyster culture and spat planting. Misty sunrises and friendly locals made McClellanville a standout for its relaxed atmosphere and authentic coastal life.
This article was originally published in the April 2023 issue.